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Showing posts with label Car Problems. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Car Problems. Show all posts

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Your Car Kicked The Bucket? Time To Change?

When the phone rang, I knew the news was bad. "It's the catalytic converter," she told me. "And it's going to be $1,500 to fix."

My mom had already begun to mourn her 1999 Volvo XC70. As she talked about the repairs the station wagon needed, she admitted she'd been eyeing a new Toyota Prius, because paying to fix the Volvo just didn't seem worth it.

After all, Mom's Volvo, which is in fair condition and has nearly 150,000 miles on it, has a Kelley Blue Book value of about $3,000. Putting almost half the value of the car into fixing it would be silly and wasteful.

Not so fast, Mom.


Mom's Math

At some point, almost every car owner will be faced with repair bills. And as the bills start to add up to a large proportion of a car's value, many owners start to figure that their car has officially kicked the bucket. But thinking that way is actually a costly mistake.

This way of thinking confuses a car's potential monetary value with its actual value. At a basic level, a car's value -- any car's value -- is its ability to provide transportation. An older car and new car can both do that. The question drivers whose cars are on life support should be asking is: How can I get the transportation a car provides at the lowest cost? Once you take a car's potential monetary value out of the equation, the math becomes clear.

For instance: Faced with a $1,500 repair bill, my mother's instinct was to go out and buy a $22,000 Prius in the name of saving money. Her Volvo is completely paid off. On a monthly basis, the only thing it costs her is gas and insurance (and since the car isn't worth all that much, the insurance is pretty low). So, yes -- paying $1,500 to save a $3,000 car does seem silly -- until you compare it to paying $22,000 for a new car to avoid a $1,500 repair bill.


The Real Math

Here's the math any car owner should do when deciding if their older car has shuffled off the mortal coil: Compare the cost of the old car over a year to the cost of a new car over the same time frame. Chances are, if your car is more than five years old, you're looking at some hefty repair bills. You're also probably looking at owning the car free and clear - which means no more monthly loan payments.

Look again at Mom's situation. The Volvo, because it needed some other repairs earlier in 2009, has cost about $2,300 in repairs this year. She spends about $90 per month insuring the car and about $200 a month on gas) driving an average of 400 miles per week). Altogether, the Volvo will cost her about $5,780 this year.

Now, let's take a look at the cost of a new Prius. Assuming she can get one for $22,000, taxes and tags included, and she puts 10 percent down, it starts out by costing her $2,200. Then if she gets a five-year loan at six-percent interest, she's looking at a monthly car payment of $386. She will see some significant fuel savings, as driving the Prius 400 miles per week should end up costing her about $72.32 per month in gas, based on EPA data. If her car insurance rate stays the same, the Prius will cost her about $8,899 this year -- $3,119 more than the Volvo. And, the Pruis will cost her, on average, $919 more per year than the Volvo for the next five years that she has a car payment.


Other Factors

Of course, there are other things to consider. If your older car is consistently unreliable, causing you to miss or be late for work, or repeatedly leaving you stranded along dark highways, it might be time for a new one. Also, there are some problems that are incredibly difficult and expensive to fix, pushing the cost of the old car above the cost of a new one. If your car has had a number of major issues, and your mechanic sees more coming down the pike, it might be time to start thinking about a new (or new-to-you) ride.

There are also some people who like getting a new car, and don't mind that they are spending more to do so. There's even the argument that getting older cars off the road in favor of newer, more fuel-efficient and less polluting models benefits us all -- Congress is even close to a deal that would allow the federal government to pay people for trading in their old gas guzzlers. This cash-for-clunkers law would provide up to $4,500 for owners of older cars to get newer, cleaner models.

Still, when deciding if your car is finally dead, the one factor you shouldn't be looking at is the ratio between repair costs and the car's sale value. Instead, do a hard comparison of your old car's cost and what a new car would cost you over a year before you decide it's time to pull the plug.


Saturday, May 23, 2009

Free Guides on Repairing a Power Window on Your Own

Power windows not working in a car can be caused by several things. The most common cause is a bad power window's motor, the switch could be faulty or the regulator could be binding or the cable could be off one of the pulleys. Rarely, windows may just be STUCK in the weather stripping (called a run) and need to be freed up and the guides lubricated with silicone spray. As a master auto technician, I've repaired literally hundreds of power windows in nearly all makes of cars over the years. In this how to article I'll let you in on some things to look for when diagnosing power windows not working. Ninety percent of the time, these type of problems can be diagnosed in less than sixty seconds!

Stops Working
If the glass moves a few inches and stops, then the motor is allowed time to cool down and will again move a few inches; the power motor will need to be replaced. If there is no sound coming from the motor, it may not be getting power or the motor itself may have an open circuit. Checking for power to the window's motor normally requires removing the door panel to access the wiring. After access to the power window wiring is gained, a test light or meter can be used to see if it is getting power and ground. I've learned over the years a short cut that saves the hassle of removing the door panel for testing the motor. Most of the time when checking this problem, just turn the headlights and interior lights on; look for a slight dimming of the interior or dash lights when the power window switch is pushed. If a slight flicker or dimming of the interior lights occur, this indicates that the switch is functional and the motor is bad. Try this with one of the power windows that is working to gauge the affect on the interior lights. If there is no change in the brightness of the interior lights when trying this with the inoperative window, the switch could be bad.
Appears to Be Off track or is Binding
Windows don't normally just go off track (the regulator fails causing it to move out of the normal position). If the window appears to be off track, the regulator has most likely failed. Window regulators either use metal gears (which rarely fail) or they use a cable and plastic pulley design - which commonly fail. If the window has fallen, the regulator will most likely need to be replaced. If the glass is cocked unevenly and is binding, the regulator has most likely came apart. The motor will be heard when pushing the switch in many cases but the window won't work correctly due to the failed regulator.
DIY Tips to Try
Sometimes electric contacts in the window switch can be worn, corroded or dirty. Try pushing the switch with your finger hard and deliberately - if the window starts to work, the switch is the problem and will most likely need to be replaced.
After accessing the motor, try tapping on it with an object (like a small wrench or a 3/8" extension) - if it temporarily works, the window motor will need to be replaced.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Most Common Car Problems You Encountered

You have to do more than just fill up your car with petrol and occasionally clean the windows. The American Automobile Association conducted nationwide clinics at 25 different AAA clubs that included inspecting 6,082 vehicles to find out the five most common car problems--all of which are easy to fix with just a little time and not too much money.

1. Tyre pressureDrivers should check tyre pressure at least once a month to ensure tyres are not under- or over-inflated. Low pressure in the tyres can increase wear and fuel consumption, while having too much pressure may reduce traction. Keeping tyres properly aligned will also help assure longer tyre life and improve fuel economy. One should always take care of his car and get the regular car repairs done.

2. A clogged air filterMaintain and replace air filters as often as is recommended in your owner's manual to ensure better air flow through the engine. This, in turn, will improve engine efficiency and result in more power and better fuel usage.

3. Insufficient tire tread depthFor sufficient traction, tires should have a minimum of 5mm tread depth. Use a depth gauge to check. Most tires also have built-in tread wear indicators that let you know when tire replacement is necessary.

4. Engine oil that is low or needs to be changedDirty oil will increase engine wear, while low oil levels can lead to overheating. If the oil level drops too low, lubrication will be lost and severe engine damage can result. Regular oil changes will add longevity to the engine.

5. Worn-out windshield wiper bladesRigid, cracked or torn wiper blades can greatly reduce visibility when driving in rain and snow, which could increase your chance of having a crash. Examine and replace your windshield wiper blades once a year or sooner if streaking begins.Your vehicle should be well taken care of. Whenever there is a need of the auto repairs one should contact the best auto repair mechanic in the town.