The best spark plugs & HT leads improve performance.

An efficient engine needs a good supply of cold air laden with oxygen.

The correct mixture of fuel and a good spark to ignite the mixture.

The two main components of a plug are:-

The ceramic casing which is a good insulator and

The electrodes from the central tip and the negative pick up contact which is connected to the engine block.

The ceramic casing allows the spark to happen at the tip rather than it shorting out inside the spark plug core. We are talking about very high voltages as we are trying to get a spark to arc through a gap.

Be very careful working on any part of a cars high tension circuit and never work on it with the engine running. Many cold start faults are caused by faulty plugs or HT leads but lets first of all remind ourselves of what goes on inside our engine.

The suck has a big effect on the bang or combustion part of the process. Any restriction in the suck will affect the efficiency of the burn. The more air that gets sucked in the more fuel can be efficiently burnt.

Primarily you need a strong spark so make sure you have a good set of spark plugs with a slightly wider gap than standard. Lining the spark gap to be on the side of the intake can also increase the efficiency of the burn.

With the plug out of the box make a mark on the ceramic edge, at the top so you can see it as it goes into the engine, with a marker pen to show which side the gap is on.

All plug threads will typically be different so if the mark does not line up with the intake remove it and rotate it 45 degrees and try again until it does.

The spark will always take the shortest path so on a twin, triple or quad tipped plug the gaps must be the same all round otherwise you may just as well have a single contact point. Join the debate which is raging on in our forum to establish whether triple or quad plugs increase a cars performance or not.

High performance HT (high tension) Leads

Faulty high tension leads – (HT leads) will not cause a weaker spark they will just prevent the spark from happening so if you are having a misfire or uneven idle make sure the HT leads are in good order – flexing and bending them is often enough to damage then so make sure that they are handled carefully. A set of good quality HT leads will minimise electrical faults especially in extreme temperatures but will not in themselves increase performance.

The HT leads should have the lowest internal resistance and also provide electromagnetic shielding to prevent electrical interference with other car components such as the main engine control unit (including the radio). The lead should be matched to the voltage as the wrong size core can lead to heat problems and resistance issues. A sports core size will be as large as 8.5 mm whereas a street tuned car will probably get away with 7 or 8 mm core sizes. Most HT lead suppliers can assist you in choosing the right length and core size for your cars application.

Performance ignition coils and coil packs.

Just as a power transformer converts mains 240 volts into a usable 9 volts for your charger or appliance a coil will increase the voltage (in some installations up to 40,000 volts) allowing the creation of a spark which can jump the gap between the plugs. In some modern engines there is a separate coil pack with a separate coil for each spark plug. A faulty coil can also reduce the spark voltage to the point that no spark happens and you end up with a misfire.

Sports coils increase the power to the plug and allow a larger spark so match a sports coil with a larger plug gap. Timing the spark is critical too early (premature ignition) and the engine could be damaged and too late and the compression will be lower as the exhaust port opens potentially causing damage to the cat & exhaust as combustion move down along the exhaust.

Ideally you want to create a spark inside the cylinder of the engine and expose as much of the spark as possible to the compressed air and fuel mixture. Ideally the electrodes should be as thin as possible and be good conductors of electricity and the voltage should be as high as possible. Spark plug technology has really moved on in recent years and iridium tipped plugs allow an ultra fine electrode, last for up to 40,000 miles and are superb conductors of electricity.

Ignition system maintenance.

A good steady power supply is vital for a good strong spark, common problems in an old engine are actually caused by a bad earth connection (actually just the connection to the -ve battery terminal). Power regulators are available which ensure that a constant voltage is always available.

If you have a large ICE install and lots of other power draining accessories you may find that on a cold day when a battery typically struggles it will fail so ensure you have a battery with a large cranking power which although only gives 12V, it will do so in a much more steady manner and be more resilient to adverse conditions.

Ensure that the spark plugs are clean and in good condition as the terminals may well glaze and lose their conductivity to a small degree over time (expensive plugs are typically more resistant to glazing and can be left for longer periods of time).

So every six months or so it can be beneficial on normal plugs (we are not here referring to iridium or performance/long life spark plugs) to deglaze them by rubbing them over with a wire brush and fine grade of sandpaper. This keeps the conductivity of the contact points and ensures a strong spark thereby maintaining both performance and economy.

The best engine tune advice

Firstly, lets understand that this article is written about EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) and Engine Management. And more accurately, it's about programmable or performance fuel injection. This is not so relevant to factory fuel injection, where the word "tuneup" may mean to check the sparkplugs and airfilter.This article is about programmable fuel injection and engine management systems that allow the engine to be tuned for both maximum power, but also great drivability and fuel economy.There are some obvious things like, how much power does the engine make, how much torque does the engine make. They are the easy ones. But often, there are less important than many people realize.

We are involved in tuning cars almost every day. And although engine power and torque are obviously important, there is one thing that almost all customers want from their engine and vehicle.Drivability.That's it.While power and torque are very important, in the end most people are most impressed when a car drives well.For most customers there is nothing more disappointing, or frustrating than a car that doesn't start well, doesn't idle and doesn't drive well for the 90 of the time, many cars are driven in traffic, or at least driven below 90% throttle.That is why, when we are doing a tune on a car, we generally ask to have the car for 5 days.On the first day, the car arrives and the engine bay is checked over to ensure there is nothing that looks like a potential hazard later on, both in terms of incorrectly fitted hoses, lines, throttles, etc. But also in terms of safety. Since, if anything falls off an engine while it is running flat out on the dyno, there is always the potential for disaster.We also make sure the person doing the tuning has a good understanding of what the customer wants to achieve in this tuning session. If the car is a daily driver, fuel economy may be of high importance. But if the car is a 1/ 4 mile stomer, then there are other factors to consider. This is discussed at some length with the owner of the car before the engine is tuned.Once the pre-dyno checks are completed on day 1, day 2 is dyno day. Depending on the original state of tune, what modifications have been done to the vehicle, and how highly modified the engine is, the amount of time required on the dyno can vary greatly from 1-2 hours, up to several hours. Your dyno operator will probably be able to give you some indication of the number of hours your tune should take, so long as everything on your engine is working together properly.If, for example, you have modified your turbo, but not increased the amount of fuel your fuel system can deliver. In this case there may be a point at which the fuel delivery is maxed out, and no matter what the tuner does, he/ she can not get any more fuel delivered into the engine.At this point, the tuner should stop the dyno tune, and report the situation to you, with one or two suggestions on the course of action required to get past this problem. The solution may be larger injectors, or an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Experience will allow the tuner make the most appropriate suggestions.Day 3, is cold start day. Once the engine is tuned for maximum power and torque, it is time to start tuning the starting fuel and transient fuelling. We want to start the engine cold and see how it reacts to throttle movement. This can be a tricky time, as the fuel and ignition maps work in conjunction with the temperature compensations, and the acceleration enrichment adjustable values.Day 4, cold start and hot start day. Once again, cold starts in the morning followed by warm and hot starts, as well as some cold and hot driving. EFI systems should be checked for correct tune at all operating conditions.Since everyone drives differently, it is a good idea (if possible) for someone beside the tuner to take the car for a drive with the tuner in the passenger seat. Everyone drives differently to everyone else, so try to have the car driven by at least 1 person other than the tuner before delivering it to the customer.If the tuner is happy with the car at this point, he usually calls the customer to let the customer know that his car should be ready to be picked up the following afternoon.Day 5, is final cold start day. One more cold start and immediate cold driving to make sure everything is optimized for the first couple of minutes of driving.